We didn't choose watercress as the foundation for our business and skincare range because it was natural or a gimmick. In fact, we didn't even set out to make a range of skincare products at all. We didn't look at 'what was trending online' and decide that we could jump on the latest bandwagon. Through years of research into many different plants, fruits and vegetables, we quickly began to realise that the natural nutritional properties and the potential of watercress wasn't something we were able to ignore. What all of that research showed us was the clear connection between watercress and its potential in skincare.
Prof&Doc® is the culmination of more than 13 years of research that began in 2013. It was created by Professor Paul Winyard and me, bringing together Paul’s expertise in biochemistry and inflammatory disease with my clinical and medical background. What began as an investigation into the natural chemistry of watercress ultimately led us to explore how this remarkable plant could form the basis of a new approach to skincare.
Watercress immediately stood out because of its exceptional natural profile. In a peer-reviewed study of nutrient-dense powerhouse fruits and vegetables, it ranked highest among the foods assessed against the study’s criteria. It also contains a diverse range of naturally occurring plant compounds. This combination of nutrient density and distinctive natural chemistry made watercress a particularly compelling subject for scientific research.
One important area of investigation concerned ammonia. Watercress contains compounds that led our scientists to study its potential to inhibit bacterial enzymes involved in ammonia formation. This matters because ammonia can irritate the skin when it remains in prolonged contact and may weaken the skin’s protective barrier. This research did not mean that watercress was a general “detox” ingredient. Instead, it gave us a focused and scientifically relevant reason to investigate how compounds within the plant might help limit the formation of a specific unwanted irritant.
The peppery character of watercress provided another important clue. Watercress contains glucosinolates that can generate naturally occurring compounds known as isothiocyanates. As well as contributing to its distinctive taste, these compounds have been investigated for anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. This raw-ingredient research helped us to recognise the plant’s potential relevance to inflammation and skin protection.
Identifying that potential was only the beginning. We needed to find a way to harness the plant’s naturally occurring compounds in a form that could be incorporated into carefully formulated skincare. Through our bespoke, patent-pending extraction process, we developed Watercress Active®, our watercress-derived extract designed specifically for use on the skin.
That journey led us to launch Prof&Doc® in 2024. Our products are formulated for the face and body, with Watercress Active® providing the natural foundation of the range. Importantly, claims about individual Prof&Doc® products are based on evidence for the finished formulations, rather than simply assuming that every property investigated in raw watercress automatically transfers to a cosmetic product.
For me, that is what makes watercress so exciting. It is not a novelty ingredient or botanical decoration. It is the plant that inspired our research, shaped our scientific direction and ultimately became the foundation of Prof&Doc®.
To discover more about the science, the plant and Watercress Active®, visit our Why Watercress? page.